This filet lace insertion is Italian and was worked in the seventeenth century. It appears on the cover of an early twentieth century edition of Needlecraft magazine (annoyingly none of these magazines are dated). The magazine includes several filet lace patterns and includes suggestions for using them to decorate clothing and household linen. It notes that this design ‘would make a fine flounce for a duchesse table cloth or for the edge of a towel’. It also recommends that this type of border should be combined with fine drawn-thread work.
These filet
squares have been inserted in linen and although the piece does not include any
drawn-thread work, four different cut-work designs have been used to break up
the solid, woven areas. Strangely, the magazine says that if an insertion like
this is added to plain linen it looks over-elaborate, but if it is combined
with satin-stitch embroidery, broderie anglais or Hedebo work the ‘fineness of
the border is justified and its beauty enhanced’. It seems odd to specify these
three types of embroidery – what about cut-work, for example, does that enhance
the beauty or not? Also you would think that adding all these different types
of needlework would result in over-elaboration rather than the reverse!
However, I do think the addition of cut-work in the image above enhances the
piece, so perhaps the author is right after all.
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