This conference in Limerick was linked to two exhibitions of
lace and interventions throughout the city by the artist NeSpoon whose work is
shown below. We were welcomed by Jacqui Hayes from the Limerick Archives and
then addressed by the Mayor of Limerick. The conference was opened by Dr Matthew
Potter, Historian from the Limerick Archives and organiser of the event, who
talked about the history of Limerick lace. Giordana Giache, Lecturer at the
Limerick School of Art and Design and curator of the exhibitions, then spoke
about the liminal space that exists between the traditional and contemporary
and the creativity that can be found there.
Several papers considered this theme of the traditional and
the contemporary. Veronica Stuart, the Chair of the Traditional Lace Makers of
Ireland, shared some of her expertise in Irish laces and showed some lovely
examples of antique and modern work. The researcher Dr Gail Baxter spoke about
plain net, its history and decoration, and showed us beautiful examples of
traditional and contemporary work. I described my historical research into
Victorian domesticity and the gothic novels that critiqued it, which led to the
‘Whispering’ series of lace curtains (detail below) in which I use tambour lace
to tell a tale and reflect on social issues.
History lecturer Dr Maura Cronin, explained how much
lacemaking in Ireland had been linked to the relief of poverty through Boards
set up to encourage Irish manufacture. She also gave my favourite quote of the
day which was taken from a Cork newspaper in 1854 and referred to lacemaking as
‘a substitute for sluttish indolence’. Elite patronage of lacemaking was also
discussed by Veronica Rowe, whose grandmother Florence Vere O’Brien had been
instrumental in setting up the Limerick Lace School in the 19th century. Alex
Ward, Curator at the National Museum of Ireland, spoke about the fashion for
Irish laces during the 19th and early 20th century, and showed some lovely
images and fashion plates. The paper by Dr Amanda Briggs-Goode, Head of Fashion
at Nottingham Trent University, showed how lace design had been taught in
Nottingham from examples in the NTU Lace Archive. While Shazia Boucher, Deputy
Director of the Calais Lace Museum, spoke about the approach the Museum takes
to the display of lace by highlighting both the industrial heritage and the
fashion heritage.
Toni O’Malley spoke about the difference between an artist
and a craftsperson and considered the difference in value ascribed to their
work. The glass artist Roisin de Buitlear showed us images of her beautiful work (detail above),
much of it embellished with fine engraved lace patterns. Roisin also started an
animated discussion about the role of lace in the modern world and suggested
that cities like Limerick should celebrate and own their lace heritage by
weaving lace into everyday lives, for example by marking bicycle routes with
lace patterns and decorating bins with lace motifs. A topic that left everyone
with plenty of food for thought.
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