I’ve just returned from a fascinating study tour exploring Japanese
textiles as well as having a taste of ancient and modern Japanese culture. We travelled
to Tokyo, Kyoto, Arimatsu, and Kanazawa as well as the world heritage site of Miyamachokita
and visited the workshops of experts in stencil printing, various types of
shibori dyeing, ikat weaving, indigo dyeing, and yuzen fabric painting. Many of
these experts have been designated national living treasures and they were all the
third or fourth generation of their family to continue their particular traditional
technique. Their expertise and attention to detail was astounding.
As well as visiting the ateliers of those master craftsmen,
we also visited modern galleries and shops which exhibited and sold
contemporary textiles. In Tokyo we visited Reiko Sudo’s stylish Nuno shop. Reiko
showed us some beautiful textiles and many of us bought scarves and socks. In
Kyoto we were met by Keiko Kawashima who had organised some fascinating opportunities for us including
a visit to her own gallery GalleryGallery to see
an exhibition of the work of Yasuko Fujino and hear an impromptu talk by
Chiyoko Tanaka about her work. It was fascinating to hear how both of them
approach their weaving practice.
We also visited an exhibition of student textile work and a
stunning display of different textiles in the Hosoo Gallery (image above). It
was interesting to see how many of the traditional textile producers are
developing new markets for their work as the use of textiles for kimonos is
declining. The decline in the use of kimono was evident in the shops selling
secondhand kimonos, jackets and obis, but all provided wonderful buying opportunities
for those of us interested in textiles. One place where we did see families
wearing kimonos was at a the Hiejinja shrine in Tokyo where there was a celebration
of children aged 7, 5 and 3 years of age, all dressed traditionally and having
their photos taken. That was just one of the lovely shrines and temples we visited
during our trip.
We also managed to fit in some interesting museum visits
including those dedicated to indigo, shibori, weaving and gold leaf. Visiting the
Miho Museum proved to be an experience as its position in the countryside among
trees and streams and the fact it is situated on a split site, which involves
entering it through a tunnel and walkway, made it seem like a pilgrimage. Once
there the exhibits were beautifully displayed in the tranquil contemporary
setting and there was an interesting exhibition of Bizen ceramics. In contrast,
our final day was spent at the Teamlab digital exhibition in Tokyo (image
above) which was an immersive light and sound experience – magical in its own
way, which highlighted the combination of ancient and modern that is today’s
Japan.
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